In Search of the Holy Ramen

One of the benefits of being a teacher in Japan is that you meet new students all the time and from that you often get recommended new places to visit. At the start of each school year, I do a self-introduction, giving basic info about myself – facts about country of origin, life in japan, likes and dislikes, that kind of thing. The things I most enjoy talking about is my favourite and least favourite foods – an easy attention getter in any language. 

One of my favourite foods in Japan is miso ramen (Chinese noodle dish adopted by the Japanese in a similar way that curry was by the British). There are many different types of ramen, and I like most of them, but miso flavour has always been the dish of choice.

Scenario: Classroom full of 30 new students.

“I like ramen”, I say.

Students: “heeeeeeeeeh” (Many connotations, but basically "Oh, wow.") the standard response.

“I love miso ramen”, I continue. “Do you like miso ramen?" (leading question).

Either silence or excited muttering to each other in Japanese. “So, if you know any good ramen shops, please let me know!” It's a sure bet saying this to a room of 30 people that someone has the information I'm after.

“Hands up who likes miso ramen”, I urge. 

Maybe one or two hands, even though a lot more probably do. Anyway, I get names and places. This year I had a student approach me after the lesson especially to tell me that she knew of a good miso place in Motoyawata (10 minutes from my apartment). Great! After getting a bit excited about a new place to explore, I realised that I had been there once already (often the case with ramen restaurants). But since I've started writing this blog, I thought I'd give it another go. Any excuse.

The weather was awful but I persevered. Nothing that a warm ramen can't sort out! The shop is around two minutes walk from Motoyawata JR station. Name: Gaten. Apparently this place gets so busy sometimes that you have to make reservations. Not so today though, as the weather and the timing (about 5pm) put paid to that.

As with a lot of ramen restaurants in Japan there is a system where you buy tickets from a machine as you walk in (good for getting people in and out quickly). The machine, all in Japanese, took a bit of working out as my kanji reading skills are not all that good. However, I found the miso + char siu (Chinese barbecued pork) without much bother. 

So, one of those, a small bowl of rice, and a large bottle of Kirin beer (heh, go large, why not?). ¥1500 in total. A gentlemen came to collect my tickets and showed me to my seat at the back. The place was pretty empty and I could have chosen to sit in a slightly bigger area that is raised and seats around six but I went for a table for two. 

The waiter brought me my oshibori (hand towel), water, and beer and I sat back and perused the joint. Nice place, quite spacious, with plenty of light and some not too intrusive J-Pop playing in the background. Also there were some pictures colored in by local kids on the walls. It gave the place a nice feeling, which is unlike some ramen restaurants that are akin to run-down greasy cafes and have little in the way of atmosphere.

The food arrived. This was a standard miso ramen with char siu pork, with egg, menma (bamboo shoots) and sweetcorn topping. I used some of the condiments – spoonful of garlic, dabble of red-hot chill sauce, and black pepper. These are perfect for some extra tang. There are other things such as shouyu (soy sauce), shijimi (dry red pepper), and white vinegar, but these are mainly used for other dishes which are plentiful on the menu here. 

I requested the soup abura (fattiness) be futsu (regular). The dish came with the usual sprinkling of pork fat on the top (doesn't sound too appetizing but it really does complement it). The meat was cut thin and was a little fatty, but melted in the mouth perfectly. Combined with the rice and the beer, it went down very well. I'll definitely come here again and will bring people with me. I have been to other places in Motoyawata that have different combinations of toppings that I prefer and a slightly thicker soup and thicker meat, but this was by no means a disappointing dish. 

You can pick up dedicated ramen magazines at convenience stores that review most places in your local area and I will be checking the closest one to me in search of the perfect ramen feast. In the meantime though, I'd come here again and definitely with friends so we can enjoy the experience together.

I'm seeing the student tomorrow that gave me the information about Gaten. She'll be very pleased that I give it a enthusiastic “oishiiii!” when she asks how it was.

Directions: http://tinyurl.com/7qkk3gq

A Leisurely Sunday (pt.1)

In the Onitaka area, located at an approximately equal distance north of Shimosa Nakayama, Nishi-Funabashi, and Motoyawata, there is a place worth visiting when you're in the wandering mood: Shochuzan Hokekyo-ji Temple.

Five-Storey Pagoda

This is the famous temple where the influential monk Nichiren Daishonin resided in 1265 – his teachings are one of the fundamentals of Buddhist religion still influencing Japanese society today. Many of his original scriptures are still housed there, including the "Conversation Between a Sage and an Unenlightened Man", which contains the Zen teachings of 'the finger pointing to the moon', and after an hour or so there you can sense the “heavenly glory” all around you.

This is where I used to escape for some peace and quiet when I first came to Japan, away from all the people and the concrete that can sometimes get a little oppressive. In the UK, I had attended some Buddhist meditation classes and my teacher, a beautifully radiant woman named Vicky, had predicted I'd live in Japan and visit such a place. I'm not superstitious or religious, but she got it spot on, and this temple became a wonderful retreat for me in my first few years living here.

Sandals Drying on Temple Gate

The temple is a perfect place to clear your mind. The walk up the partially steep hill is well worth it, as you pass many atmospheric, small businesses and shops on the way, ranging from yakitoriyas (selling various grilled chicken parts on sticks) and family run izakayas (a traditional Japanese restaurant and drinking establishment), green tea shops, souvenir shops and the like, and a very nice stop off point, which is a small garden with sheltered seating area where you can sit back and listen to the birds tweeting playfully at the placid temple cats. It feels like this garden is placed perfectly halfway up the hill. This is no fluke. Someone's actually thought this through. 

 

You quickly find yourself at the top of the hill and at the San Mon (temple gate). This grand entrance, staring down at you the with menace and welcome at the same time, is a sight to behold. The two large demonic guards each side of the gate leave you a little in awe, and it's hard not to get the feeling that you won't be bumping into any bad spirits once you cross the threshold. Comforting.

San Mon (Temple Gate)

The walk down to the main area is equally as nice. The downward slope really does throw you into a bit of a time warp. I brought some friends down here just after dusk one time. There is a Kendo school off to one of the sides. Seeing that there, tucked away, brought up all sorts of imagery – secretive, exclusive dojo with a handful of picked students attaining mastery of this ancient art! Even if you're not into that kind of thing, it certainly adds to the atmosphere.

Walkway Down to Main Area

Seating Outside Cafe

There are some beautiful reds and greens in this area at the moment (even after the cheery blossom season, there's still plenty to enjoy). While you're in the temple there are a few things that you can experience. My favourite is a quick prayer to the medium size but utterly serene and majestic seated Buddha. It's hard not to get a sense of wonder and peace from this beautiful statue. A brief stop and bow usually do.

Statue of Buddha

Then it's off to get smoked. There are the usual temple routines of Joukorou (smoke purification), Chozuba (water purification), and Kane (money toss, bell ring, clap, and prayer) at the Daido (Main ceremonial building). Even for non-religious people, it's fun to participate in all these rituals. I like that about Buddhism - it's not that there aren't any rules, just that you can take it completely in your stride.

Daido (Great Hall)

What I find really amazing though is the chanting of the Sutras by the temple monks. If you haven't heard this, you really must try to catch it. I engaged with it immediately today. You can actually feel the vibrations in the air and then traveling around inside you. I can only imagine what it is like for them sitting there doing it. The energy must be amazing.

1000 Sutras

On the way out there a few places you can stop at. There is a coffee shop called Tom's, who do a very nice cup of coffee with a slice of cheesecake for ¥800. It's small, but comfortable. Politik by Coldplay was playing when I went in, which was quite a significant song for me when I first came to Japan and when I used to come to this temple - probably just a coincidence but the timing couldn't have been better. Alternatively, there are some small traditional Japanese cafes and shops by the entrance where on a nice day you can sit outside and enjoy the atmosphere of the temple while sipping a beer or a soft drink.

 

Visiting the temple today made it a perfect Sunday. But I would seriously recommend going here if you want to find that extra special wind-down spot any day of the week.

Address:

2-10-1 Nakayama Ichikawa-shi, Chiba-ken. 〒272-0813

Tel: 047-334-3433

Web site:  http://www.hokekyoji.com/ (Japanese only)

Directions:

JR Sobu-sen Shimousa Nakayama-station - 15 minutes on foot.

Keisei Nakayama-station - 5 minutes on foot.

Map:  http://tinyurl.com/7vpr2j7

Best Curry In Japan

Hello, and welcome to a new blog: Ichikawa & Funabashi Explored

So here we go!

I've always loved curry. My father used to get them free when unwitting Indian restaurant owners challenged him to eat their hottest ones. Vindaloo, Phall, you name it. This got passed down to me and it has always been a red hot love affair, despite the odd broken heart.

I have been searching for immense curry experiences ever since living in Japan. The standard 'soup curry' usually hits a spot, though I think most Nepali, Indian and Pakistani restaurants opt for this over their own more traditional recipes, but more on that later.

After trying literally hundreds of different places, I think I may have found the best curry in the Ichikawa and Funabashi area, and, as far as I've experienced, in Japan. Now, this is from my own perspective, and it's a big claim, but I'll share this experience with you knowing that if you love curry as much as I do, you will be thrilled that such a place exists.

Sapna Indian Restaurant, Motoyawata

I visited this amazing Indian curry restaurant three days ago. It wasn't just the food that was amazing either, the interior, the music, the service were all great too. If you live in the Ichikawa or Funabashi area, you're in for a treat.

The restaurant is situated about 4 minutes on foot from Motoyawata station. It feels like it's just the right distance that it's neither too exposed or too hidden. I went around 5pm so there was pretty much a whole restaurant to choose from. I decided to sit in the back room, as there were a couple of people in the main bit. Nothing to disturb my experience.

I was served by a Japanese gentleman, who waited around to take my order, asking the usual, “You can read?” (as I read the menu) and “Where from?” questions. I often get into pre- or mid-meal conversations when I eat at curry restaurants here, and especially after the 2^nd or 3^rd visit, but I wasn't that bothered by it this time. Though I've been in situations where the waiters seem to feel obliged to have long chats with me during meals when they really shouldn't feel the need to, and once I was even asked to fill out some bank forms for someone while I was chowing down. Anyway, I hoped I wouldn't be asked to complete any paperwork this time around.

Main area

I ordered Chicken Masala, rice (the waiter told me to order half as the rest would be very filling), naan, and a beer. There was some really nice jazz playing in the background, some standard female vocals over really mellow accompaniment. The windows were open and there was a lovely breeze. The outside was quiet even though there are semi-busy roads running parallel to both of the restaurant's entrances.

I looked around the room and sipped my beer. Then I was visited by Mr.Khan. I had known Mr.Khan from a few years back when he was working at this shop's sister restaurant in Ichikawa. Really, really nice guy. We chatted a bit and caught up. Then the food came.

Oh. My. God.

Best curry in Ichikawa (And probably Japan :))

Simply the best curry since coming to Japan 10 years ago. I couldn't quite believe how amazing it was. And spicy too. I think the best thing about it was that it was really similar to the curries you get at the best restaurants in the UK (I lived next to the Curry Mile in Manchester for 4 years). I've been looking for a curry like this for so long. I asked Mr.Khan about it and he explained that it was his own recipe and that it was made from scratch with all the essential herbs and spices.

It had all the makings of a homemade curry and felt it had been made with a lot of love, care and attention. We chatted about other curries you get in Japan and both agreed that the Japanese taste is for soup curry that doesn't pack much of a punch. This was a first for me in here. It felt like I was sitting in my local Indian restaurant in England, except there was no fear of having your meal ruined by the potential threat of violence.

Back room - quiet and spacious

I told Mr.Khan about my preferences for paratha, Basmati rice, and roti and he said that all could be arranged if we brought around 15 people down on a night with a bit of notice. He really is one of the loveliest people I've chatted to while dying to stuff my mouth full of Chicken Masala!

Mr.Khan popped back to give me his card. I finished up. I asked what the music was and had a couple of photos with the chefs before I left.

One down, many to go

The bill was a very reasonable ¥2000. The last thing I said as I left was “That has really warmed my heart”, as tears ran down my face in celebration of this spicy delight. Was amazingly hot; my father would be proud. 

Sapna Indian Restaurant
千葉県市川市南八幡３丁目６－１７
272-0023, Japan 
+81 47-393-5115  
 sapna.web.fc2.com