Moving in Japan - Episode 1

With all the prospects of paying hefty key money (essentially a gift for the landlord), high deposits, and fees for all sorts of things, the hours of sitting in estate agents, filling out tons of paperwork, only to be let down at the last minute as the apartment suddenly gets snapped up by someone else, the hours of searching around for something that is not going to leave you broke for the next six months, but is barely big enough to accommodate your average XXL gaijin, the days of boxing, shifting and uprooting your life, and the delights of cleaning your old apartment from top to bottom and then being charged a month's rent as 'cleaning fees', welcome to the world of moving in Japan - it's not for the fainthearted. Here are some of my high(low)lights.

 

This will be my fifth move in ten years and the thought of it is as appealing as the last time I moved (around the time of the 2011 Tōhoku earthquake). My first four years in Japan were spent living in the same apartment. I was living in Shimosa Nakayama (close to where I'm living now, incidentally – full loop), and I was living in what could be described as little more than a box with small, separate shower and toilet. For this, albeit being very close to the station, I was paying ¥70000 per month (about $750), and as I didn't really have much to compare it to at the time, I accepted that this was probably not a bad price to pay. 

My Austrian landlord had taken practically all of my money the first evening after I'd arrived – one and a half months rent up front, deposit, and insurance. He gave me the key and dropped me off. I'd just got here so I was too excited to care. The place was a lot smaller than I had been used to in the UK, but that was OK - I was in Japan! I wrote a diary for the first three months of my stay and most of what I wrote, reading back on it, was quite positive. My company gave me an advance on my wages to cover bills, eat and travel to work, and so I could keep up with rental payments, and so this helped me to get settled. In the small cluster of apartments in which I was living were a few other foreigners. I didn't really get to talk to them much, as they would come and go with quite high regularity.

After a while I got talking to one of the other residents that was living in one of the same sized apartments as me. It turned out I had been paying ¥10000 more a month than everyone else. So not only did I suddenly realise that the rent was extortionate for what I was getting, I was in fact being ripped off. I went to see the landlord about this and asked him to explain himself. He said that what I had heard was untrue, then showed me a few examples in his tenant book. Unfortunately, he showed me a few too many pages - “How about this, this and this?!” I said, pointing to apartments being rented at ¥60000. He admitted that he was overcharging me. I told him I wasn't going to pay him a month and a half rent to make up for the money he'd been taking off me, and with a slight grin he agreed. No “sorry” or contrition, just an air of, “Oh well, you caught me, but there's not much you can do about it.”

Looking back though, I really didn't have a leg to stand on, or at least I felt I didn't have anyone to turn to. Thinking about it I should've moved a lot sooner, but I ended up staying in his apartment for around 4 years, now that it was a bit cheaper – being close to the station and to work did help a lot too. Until a friend suggested we move in together, I'd never tried to look for another apartment. And so began the long, arduous trip into the world of moving in Japan.

Episode 2 coming soon.

A Glass Raised to Toastmasters Ichikawa

Last weekend I was kindly invited to attend, and participate in, a session of Ichikawa's Toastmasters Club (TMC). The Club, set up by local residents and members from other Toastmasters clubs in the area, and chartered by Toastmasters International, California in March 2012, meets twice monthly and gives participants an opportunity to voice their opinion on a variety of topics that are important to them individually or to society in general. 

Toastmasters International is an organization that offers support to people wishing to learn to be better speakers, listeners, and thinkers, as well as helping participants to improve their presentation and leadership skills. Founded in the States in the mid-20s by Dr. Ralph C. Smedley, its popularity spread, and now it can be found in over 100 countries around the world. 

Toastmasters was introduced to Japan in 1953, approved in 2005, and as of 2013 there are now 129 clubs across 6 divisions in 22 areas, with new ones forming every year. These clubs take presenting very seriously and every year there are club (individual), area (5 clubs), division (Kanto area), and district (Japan) speech contests from which the eventual winner travels abroad to compete for the title of "World Champion of Public Speaking."

Each meeting is set around 3 or more main speakers who have prepared speeches based on guidelines from communicational competence manuals provided by the club. The role of participants, including officers for the day – Toastmaster (host), Table Topic Master (TTM), Timekeeper, Grammarian, Vote Counter, Um-Ah Counter - is not only to present but also to evaluate and give feedback to the speakers on that day - responsibilities are shared so everyone can contribute as equally as possible.

The meeting started with a thought of the day (about adversity)*, and a word of the day “inevitably” from the Toastmaster. This was followed by a short topic feedback session by the TTM. The topics posed related to events that happened in 2012 and that will happen in 2013. Participants each took turns standing up and gave their opinions about these important events.

The main speakers' topics included a talk about the history and renovation of Tokyo station, the history of Toastmasters International and its popularity in Japan, and a discussion on Japan's dwindling birth rate, which included a feedback session from other participants, giving their ideas on how to improve things; this also extended to the state of social security, healthcare, and the economy.

After an hour of presentations we all marked cards and judged each other's efforts. And at the very end, prizes were given for the best speeches. I had tuned out for a minute as I was evaluating the contribution of the Timekeeper, and, to my surprise, I heard my name called out. I was awarded a ribbon for "Table Topic Speaker of the Day"; my acceptance speech: “I really don't deserve this.”

At Toastmasters Ichikawa participants can present their ideas safely in the knowledge that their time spent at the lectern will be respected, their ideas will be listened to and points discussed in a mature and non-confrontational manner, and at the same time they will receive a great deal of constructive criticism that will help them improve their presentation skills. Part of the Club's mission statement is that they are there to “provide a mutually supportive and positive learning environment...which fosters self-confidence and personal growth.” This was completely fulfilled on the day that I attended, and the fact that I went home with a winner's ribbon just goes to show how generous in their praise the members of the club really are.

*"If you're feeling low, don't despair. The sun has a sinking spell every night, but it comes back up every morning. The way I see it, if you want the rainbow, you gotta put up with the rain."

                                                                                                      ~ Dolly Parton 

 

Ichikawa Toastmasters Club

Meeting held twice monthly - venues vary

Next meeting: 2013/1/19 (Sat.)10-12am 

市川駅行政サービスセンター I-linkルーム 

Ichikawa Station Administration Service Center I-link Room

 http://ichikawa.toastmastersclubs.org/

Akemashite Omedetou Gozaimasu!

New Year's Eve called for a visit to Tōbu Hyakkaten 東武百貨店 (Tōbu department store), conveniently situated under JR Funabashi station, which accommodates the Sobu Line and Tobu Noda Line and is only a short distance from Keisei Funabashi Station on the Keisei Main Line. Places like this can reach bursting point around this time. Though it shouldn't be missed if you enjoy the final shopping push of the year and the mad scramble for all the best shōgatsu (Japanese New Year) culinary delights.

Wandering around B1 of this place is not for the agoraphobic or claustrophobic among us; there's no end of pushing and barging, and this is accompanied by the implored wailing of the myriad of shop staff tempting you to try samples of the never ending lines of delicious looking food. But it does have the character and buzz of a thriving market and there is little in the way of antagonism between shoppers - people do maintain some etiquette despite the ample opportunity to do exactly the opposite.

There is always so much on offer, but the more traditional food for this time of year - toshikoshi soba (buckwheat noodles), ozoni (rice cake soup), osechi (a box filled with a variety of foods), and mochi (glutinous rice) - are a very tempting choice for the last meal of this year and the first meal of the next. Other choices include ebi chilli (fried shrimp in a sweet spicy sauce), fried chicken, Gyoza (Chinese dumplings), yakitori (skewered chicken), and a seemingly never-ending selection of sweets and cakes. There is also a choice of Italian, Chinese, and Indian cuisine - the list goes on.

Though the hustle and bustle can get a bit much, the atmosphere is quite special - a bit like last minute Xmas shopping in the West. Once you've made your choice, it's time to head for the exit, slightly battered and bruised, but loaded with enough food to last a week.

    

The choice of food this year was easy - fried chicken, soba noodles with large fried shrimp, mochi, and, of course, ebi chilli. All washed down with a nice bottle of sake and a few beers. Lovely.

Happy New Year!!!   

Bristol 23: Beer, Football, Music & Laughter - Tick!

A bar well worth visiting in the Ichikawa area is a small, foreigner owned establishment called Bristol 23. A couple of years ago, while living out of Tokyo up in cold but warmhearted Niigata City, I used to visit a bar whose sole proprietor was an expat from New Zealand. This soon became my favorite place to hang out, and particularly so because of the great relationship I had with the owner - just sitting at the bar chatting with him or with the regulars was a real pleasure. The closest I've come to experiencing the same is at Bristol 23. So, if what you're looking for is to feel welcomed within a warm and genial atmosphere, you should check this place out.

Established in 2008 by two Ghanaian expats, Ernie and Tim, the bar takes its name from two sources: firstly, both owners lived in the UK, with one of them living in Bristol. Secondly, the 23 represents high skill or success within the field of sport and is a number worn by such superstars as Michael Jordon and David Beckham. The love of sports and music is standout here, as is the sense of humour of the guys who run it - rarely do you find yourself chatting and laughing to this degree after arriving alone at a bar.

Though easy to find and an easy place to meet new people, the bar provides more than just a warm atmosphere at a convenient location from Motoyawata station. Ernie and Tim have created an atmosphere that offers an environment for newcomers to find their feet after arriving in Japan - perfect for someone who has yet to find their way around. It's not that you can't sit on your own and sup a pint, but it's certainly ideal for meeting the locals and a variety of professional people who have something interesting to say. One regular is a professor of Physics at a university in Tokyo, and chatting to him at the bar for an hour is an absolute pleasure. Others I've talked to include traders, social workers, salary men, and people from many walks of life. This isn't just a place where people come to practice English. People genuinely have something interesting they want to express about themselves.

Apart from the beer and good chat you can enjoy here, there is also a wide range of food on tap. I haven't eaten extensively from the menu, but I have sampled their very reasonably priced and tasty homemade pizza. Other delights include the tuna nachos, African kebab, and the quite unique dish for the Ichikawa area - homemade "Gumbo" (Louisiana soup). Drinks wise, there are a wide range of whiskeys for the connoisseur, a good selection of bottled ales, and the usual draft fair. They also serve cocktails, two of which, the Brain Buster and the Wild Wild West, are something to behold. But you don't find the need to get paralytic here. It really is enough just to soak up the ambiance and joviality of those who frequent the bar.

Another quirk is the music, which is available upon request. The bar has a large screen TV which is connected to the Internet, so you can request literally anything - my favourite burst of three last time I was there was One Direction (not my choice), followed by The Doors (mine :)), followed by Smokey Robinson. Even if these artists aren't your cup of tea, this just highlights the variety on offer. There is also live blues played from time to time which, in an small, intimate environment like this, is rather special.

A personal highlight for me is that fact that Ernie and Tim are both football fanatics, which means that they show the English Premier league most weekends. With Ernie being a Chelsea fan, Tim - Spurs, and me - Arsenal, you might think things could be a little frosty when it comes to football chat. This, however, couldn't be further from the truth. In fact, I have never been in a bar where I've felt so relaxed bantering about football. There is not an ounce of animosity between us, despite our allegiances. For that reason, I love this bar.
 

Bristol 23
3-6-17-#206 Minamiyawata
Ichikawa-shi 
Chiba-ken　
272-0023 
Phone: 047-376-3722

Menu: http://www1.icnet.ne.jp/as2tvyqj/d&f_e.html

Map: http://www1.icnet.ne.jp/as2tvyqj/access_e.html



The guys have just opened up Bristol 23's sister bar in Urayasu, so watch this space for some more info about that.

Crossing Borders - A Stroll in the Park

After a week of busy trains, traveling through interminable stretches of concrete, and standing shoulder to shoulder with the silent masses, you could do a lot worse that finding yourself wandering within Tokyo's Kasairinkai Park (葛西臨海公園 Kasai Rinkai Kōen).

Only a short ride across the border from Chiba, built on reclaimed land which was previously used as garbage lots, and officially opened in 1989, the park runs along one edge of Tokyo Bay and is a great place to visit if you want to sit and relax near water or you want to get lost in a bit of nature. Within the park there is an aquarium (Tokyo Sea Life Park), a bird sanctuary, and a large ferris wheel (the tallest in Tokyo) which was opened in 2001, on which you can view Tokyo Bay, Edogawa, Tokyo Disneyland, and Mount Fuji. So if you have kids, this is a great spot to bring them and a place where you will be able to get a decent afternoon's worth of entertainment.

I visited the park on Sunday which was, weather wise, one of those stunning autumn days you get in Japan. After coming out of Kasai Rinkai Koen station, you are greeted by a small fountain, gently puffing its water skywards. And behind this, set on the horizon, is the Diamond and Flower Ferris Wheel. As Tokyo Disneyland is the next stop down, you imagine that this may be conveniently arranged to help parents persuade their kids that they can have a nice day out, even if it doesn't involve shelling out ¥10000 to see Mickey Mouse and friends.

The aquarium is conveniently close to the station too, and walking across the square leading up to the Tokyo Bay coastline you often see street performances, who are commonly found at tourist attractions around Japan; sometimes you see a 'one-man-and-his-monkey-on-a-string' show at touristy spots (a bit of an uncomfortable watch, in my opinion), but this time there was a guy juggling and skillfully performing balancing tricks to the appreciatively enthusiastic crowd.

As you get near the bay area you come across a modern looking building, which is intended to be a viewing gallery/info spot. The Japanese usually do this quite well, and there is nothing particularly wrong with this architecturally pleasing building, but it is very sparse inside (information wise, TVs meant for public information looked like they were under maintenance), and someone had decided to flick the air-con switch to off. So, just a quick walk through here and then on to the the main part of the park.

As you follow the path which runs parallel to the bay, you soon come across the bird sanctuary, where you will find watching the 'birders' eagerly photographing their tweeting friends as interesting as the nature itself. Viewing is done from something that resembles an artificial cave, where you can look out of decently sized slots. There are two of these viewing caves placed conveniently on each side of the reserve. If you are patient enough, you can observe a variety of migrational species of birds. And by the quality of the photographic equipment you can see being used, there is no doubting how serious the people take bird and nature watching here. 

One of the great features about this area is the panoramic view across the bay. From the concrete building housed within part of the sanctuary, one guy had even set up a full-scale telescope, which lead me to think he was waiting for sundown to attempt a proper view of the cosmos. There are ¥100-a-go mini-telescopes at hand too that wouldn't be out of place on a coastline promenade in Britain and they are perfect for watching the myriad of vehicles within the bay, including the planes coming into land at Haneda airport.

Sometimes you may get the feeling that as you walk around 'natural' areas in Japan, it's all a bit manufactured. And indeed here it sometimes feels like you are walking around a Disneyland for adults. But there is no question that the work done to preserve the Bay's natural habitat through renovation and conservation has produced one of the best getaways you will find in the area.

Kasai-Rinkai Park: located is about a half an hour from JR Tokyo Station on the Keiyo Line (京葉線). .
Buses can be taken from Kasai Station and Nishi-Kasai Station to Kasai Rinkai Park on Tokyo Metro's Tousai Line.

 http://goo.gl/maps/61PDX

Shopping out of Tokyo

Japan is by far one of the most stylish countries in the world. The fashion you see here is replicated, often months or even years later, in Europe and North America. Tokyo’s Harajuku, Shibuya and Ginza districts are fashion capitals in their own right and designers and stylists such as Louis Vuitton’s Kim Jones and Patricia Fields (stylist for Sex and the City) often make trips to Tokyo for inspiration and design ideas.

Ichikawa and Funabashi, being satellite cities, don’t have the same sartorial choices you see in the capital but there are many places to buy affordable and stylish apparel. Ichikawa’s Colton Plaza deals more in family fashion and has a small roster of outlets such as cheaper chain stores like ABC Mart (sports shoes) and fast fashion king Uniqlo. Funabashi, however, has a much more impressive array of stores from high street chains to designer names. 

Funabashi’s Seibu department store (next to JR Funabashi) includes menswear brands such as Ralph Lauren, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Burberry and domestic labels such as Takeo Kikuchi. The womenswear is equally as impressive with well respected names such as Issey Miyake, Margaret Howell and more affordable local brands such as Human Woman. Towards the Tokyo Bay area of Funabashi, however, you’ll come across LaLaport which is one of Japan’s most famous and biggest shopping malls. In addition to restaurants and a Toho Cinema (which we’ll cover in a separate post) there is an amazing selection of shopping on offer including areas devoted to childrenswear, sportswear and contemporary fashion.

The list is endless but LaLaport includes Agnes B, Coach, Furla, Armani Exchange, Tommy Hilfiger, Stussy, Camper, Uniqlo, Forever 21, Mango, Banana Republic, Gap and the newly opened American Eagle Outfitters. The real gems, though, are the Japanese stores such as United Arrows, Beauty & Youth United Arrows, Fredy & Gloster, Nano Universe and my personal favorite Good Deal General Factory which has a compact yet very on-trend selection of menswear and womenswear. This select store, which is a Tribeca apartment transported (floors and all) to Japan, includes stock from John Bull, Trickers, Ralph Lauren and outdoor brands such as Duluth Pack and Danner. Props to the buyers for having such excellent and refined taste! 

The best thing to do, however, is to get your credit cards ready and spend a day walking around LaLaport. It’s a shopping paradise like no other and when you need a bit of respite there are a few Starbucks and numerous other cafes and restaurants to give you some well-deserved sustenance.

LaLaport Tokyo-Bay: 2-1-1 Hama-cho, Funabashi City, Chiba

http://tokyobay.lalaport.net/pc/