Thursday 28 June 2012

Funabashi Hot Spot

As you would expect in major cities like Tokyo and its greater regions, it can be fairly challenging to find places to get away from it all and relax. However, one of the best places for a decent unwind around town is at an onsen. These are natural hot springs that pump water from deep below the earth into communal bathing areas. Though a lot of newer onsens have a manufactured feel, they do offer the chance to get away from the madness of the daily grind, giving you time and space to sit back and let the world flow gently by.




In Funabashi, there is such a place: Funabashi Houten no Yu (FHY). It is situated only a short walk from Funabashi Houten station and is a perfect place for alleviating the stresses of urban living.

Fossilized Amphibian Artwork


FHY has a decent selection of baths and has a particularly nice outside area where you can experience many different relaxation spots. I went on Sunday, which was, unsurprisingly, very crowded. Even some of the smaller baths had 7 or 8 people in them. This was OK though as bathers tended to rotate quite regularly. Among the various baths there are some iron spherically-shaped tubs called goemonburo (named after a Robin Hood style outlaw who was boiled to death for his exploits), a roofless flat bath with hot water only covering the surface (great for staring at the sky), a partially roofed two-tiered bath lined with rocks with rusty iron-enriched water, several lie-down jacuzzis with cold pipe headrests, and lots of chairs and benches for kyuukei (taking a rest); actually I often find sitting on one of these the most enjoyable part of the onsen experience - almost like sitting on a deckchair at the seaside! 


Goemon (+ Son) in Pot


If you’re thinking of going to an onsen, and it's your first time, it's good to be aware that you will be, save for small head-covering towel, completely free of clothing. Being a foreigner, you occasionally get “curious” looks. I often catch someone staring at me if I look up suddenly. This is mainly from young kids (genuine curiosity) and some of the older guys. The looks can feel a little charged but you do get positive vibes from time to time. I’ve chatted with other bathers at onsens before – not always the best place for it but nice to know you’re not completely unwelcome. 


Outside (Not FHY, but you get the picture)


After an hour and a half of outside bathing, steam room, jacuzzi, sauna and cold bath, and a good scrub down at your own personal sit down shower, you will feel like you've had a pretty decent session. After your bath, you can visit the restaurant serving reasonable quality food, and you can grab a beer too. I just went for a small bottle of milk for ¥100 from the vending machine in the locker room, which refreshes like nothing else. 


Kyuukei


There are separate male and female resting areas outside the changing rooms, places where you can get a personal massage (a little expensive) or use a massage chair or foot massage (¥100 for 10 minutes), and an area where you can sit and relax and grab a few ice cold glasses of water if you’re waiting for someone. 




The lighting and the music here are very calming and there are simple art works and plants scattered around the place, adding to the peaceful ambiance. From the moment you walk through the door until the moment you leave it is a very relaxing experience. If you go there at certain times you can find it pretty empty (mornings and afternoons on week days are your best bet). I had the place practically all to myself once. Was probably the most relaxed I've ever felt in Japan.


Funabashi Houten no Yu
5 minutes walk from Funabashi Houten (JR) station
船橋法典駅(千葉)

Wiki: http://tinyurl.com/bmjmekz (Japanese)

 Mon-Friday: ¥700 (adults)
 Weekends: ¥750

 http://goo.gl/maps/tGWC


Tuesday 5 June 2012

Strange Bar

If you’ve ever been to or have lived in Japan you probably have come across a fair bit of quirkiness on your travels. I’ve found this to be true for some of the bars and restaurants I’ve visited over the years. One such place exists in Motoyawata and is well worth a visit if you are either a connoisseur of fine beers or a fan of the unusual.

 
Front of Strange

The bar in question: Orange Corn (おれんじCorn). If you thought that name was puzzling enough, when you discover that it goes by the more mysterious moniker of Strange Bar, you’re well on the way to bafflement.


Now, I have been to some quite ‘interesting’ places while living in Japan, for example a cosplay joint that, well, is designed like the Joint - you sit in a cell, handcuffed (if you choose), while served by armed female prison guards. And then there was the Japanese, Indian curry shop where, after hanging your coats up on fake finger hooks, they bring you the menu on a miniature globe and then discard the order entirely to bring you something of their own choosing…while singing karaoke. Strange indeed. Anyway, before this all starts getting a bit too weird, I’d like to point out that Strange Bar is really not all that strange. It’s a little out there, yes, but not in a bad way.


First, it has the most amazing range of beers. About 100 types in total are always at hand, but this increases to 120-130 when the owner has been on his travels and has picked out the cream of the best beers from the countries he's visited. The majority of beers served are foreign; Belgian beers mostly, then American and German, but there is also a great selection of Japanese beers. I tend to go for the German and Belgian beers, though if you really dig deep, you can find a beer perfectly suited to your taste. 


There’s the über-strong (8.5%) import Doppelsticke from Dusseldorf, Scottish Traquiar beer from a brewery established in the 18th century, and a Lenny Bruce memorial beer named He’Brew R.I.P.A to name but a few. The beer I’m trying for you today* is Kapuziner Weisbier from the Kulmbacher brewery in northern Bayern. As I’m sipping away, the Master explains a bit about the origin and the popularity of the beer. The explanation is all in Japanese, but I get the drift. Price: 700yen for a 500ml can; actually the prices here are very reasonable compared to other places that charge exorbitant prices for foreign tipple.


The quirkiness in the bar comes from the multitude of puzzles and games that occupy the counter, the selection of cheesy 80s music in the background, the Budweiser bandana clad Master (Hiraiwa-san), who hovers patiently, eager to serve you blocks of quality cheese on plates of lettuce or giant asparagus shoots sprinkled with katsuobushi (dried fish flakes), and the self-service from large refrigerators packed with all kinds of special brews.

Help Yourself

One thing Strange does is avoid the drag of gassy, chemically tasting draft beers you get all too often in your average bars. I have, on the odd occasion, in the middle of a drinking session, found myself unable to finish my pint. It gets too sickly by the end. Not so, however, when you’re supping on a quality German brew like Paulaner or Bitburger, or a Stella or Hoegaarden from Belgium. 


This is only a small bar but it’s very cosy. There are usually a few people in there sitting at the bar chatting to the Master or chilling with friends. I often end up at Strange with the other contributor to this blog. It’s a real treat that you can go somewhere after normal hours (it’s open until at least 2am) to drink this quality of beer. The Master’s encyclopedic knowledge of his stock is also a massive draw for us, as it’s a comfort to know that beer will be chosen by him very accurately for your particular taste. 

Beer Maps
 
There’s a decent food menu too, including a variety of dishes such German sausage, omelets, and pasta. You can also order something lighter like a salad or a variety of snacks (including packets of crisps), but you get something with the beer anyway so this is usually enough.


Whenever I get the chance to return to the UK, I often end up in a country pub drinking quality ale while chatting to my friends about this crazy old world. Even though there are a fair share of British style pubs in Japan, thus far, Strange has come the closest to offering this experience. It’s certainly a good way to educate yourself about what a decent brew is. There’s no doubt this place will help you discover quality over quantity, though there’s no guarantee that you will leave without getting a decent fill.

Library

*Oh the sacrifices I make for this blog :) 


Strange Bar (おれんじCorn, 千葉県市川市南八幡)

3-8-12 Minamiyawata, Ichikawa, Chiba Prefecture. 047-378-3407.

On foot: 5 minutes walk from JR Motoyawata Station
http://goo.gl/maps/EA7z