Explosions in the Sky

Last weekend saw Ichikawa City's yearly “Festival of Light and Sound on a Summer's Night", which is the largest Hanabi (fireworks festival) held in the Chiba area. Situated on the banks of the Edo river, separating Tokyo and Chiba, the display draws crowds from far and wide and the from the spectacle it is easy to understand why it is so popular.

This year's show provided the crowds with an amazing range of mesmerizingly colourful explosions in all shapes and sizes. Some 12000 fireworks, ranging in price from ¥6000 to ¥50000, and paid for out of local taxes, filled the skies for over an hour and a half. All of which was accompanied by an excited commentator on a tannoy, interspersed with blasts of triumphant music, informing spectators of the order of proceedings; no rest for the senses here.

The festival attracts people of all age ranges and backgrounds – you see large groups of young guys and girls dressed in yukata and kimono (Japanese traditional dress), big family get-togethers, guys on their own with professional cameras obsessively capturing the event, and many, many couples. As the restriction of space in Tokyo can limit the opportunity to have large house parties, garden parties and barbecues etc. like you often see in the West, this event gives families and friends ample opportunity to hang out en masse. This spatial freedom certainly makes it one of the year's most relished events.

Most people bring along tarpaulin ground sheets, neatly marking their individual plot, and these cover the floor as far as you can see; even at an angle on the banks leading down to the main area – the laws of gravity at times seem not to apply here. You can get very close to the action, literally right underneath the show, and I have done this once before, but it is very hard to get a slot that close unless you have booked in advance. Anyway, the fireworks shoot so far up in the air it's unlikely that you will miss much from whatever distance you are sitting.

Along with Valentines, White Day, and Christmas, it feels like there is a fair emphasis on romance when staring up at these Japanese 'flowers of fire' (direct translation of Hanabi). There is something about sitting with the love of your life while watching this kind of show that feels just right. Whether or not it's something intrinsically beautiful about the fireworks that connects with the heart, I can't be sure, but celebrations of this kind seem to be inherently connected with the spirit of lovers in Japan.

Among the shrieks of “kawaii!” (sweet/cute) and “sugoi!” (wow/brilliant), combined with cheers and applause, it's hard not to get into the collective spirit and get carried away by the whole spectacle. At the start of each individual mini-set, and then at each set's denouement, which is a deafening boom and crackle, which certainly brings about the highest degree of crowd acknowledgement, it's not uncommon either to hear the odd “kowaii!”(scary) mixed in with the joyful exclamations. There's no doubting that this is one of the most anticipated events on the calendar and enjoyed wholeheartedly.

After the 'grand finale', which culminates in a cacophony of noises and explosions, it's time to head for the nearest station. That in itself is something to behold. There are so many people trying to board the trains, and it's so humid this time of year, it is almost worth the hour walk home. Which I decided to do this year.

Ichikawa City's "Festival of Light and Sound on a Summer's Night"
Held on first Sunday of August every year
Start: 7pm (approx)

Tel: 047-704-0057
http://www.ichikawa-hanabi.jp/

Directions: 15 minutes on foot from the South Exit of JR Ichikawa Station / about 30 minutes from the South Exit of JR Motoyawata Station
http://goo.gl/maps/vs3eT