A Leisurely Sunday (pt.1)

In the Onitaka area, located at an approximately equal distance north of Shimosa Nakayama, Nishi-Funabashi, and Motoyawata, there is a place worth visiting when you're in the wandering mood: Shochuzan Hokekyo-ji Temple.

Five-Storey Pagoda

This is the famous temple where the influential monk Nichiren Daishonin resided in 1265 – his teachings are one of the fundamentals of Buddhist religion still influencing Japanese society today. Many of his original scriptures are still housed there, including the "Conversation Between a Sage and an Unenlightened Man", which contains the Zen teachings of 'the finger pointing to the moon', and after an hour or so there you can sense the “heavenly glory” all around you.

This is where I used to escape for some peace and quiet when I first came to Japan, away from all the people and the concrete that can sometimes get a little oppressive. In the UK, I had attended some Buddhist meditation classes and my teacher, a beautifully radiant woman named Vicky, had predicted I'd live in Japan and visit such a place. I'm not superstitious or religious, but she got it spot on, and this temple became a wonderful retreat for me in my first few years living here.

Sandals Drying on Temple Gate

The temple is a perfect place to clear your mind. The walk up the partially steep hill is well worth it, as you pass many atmospheric, small businesses and shops on the way, ranging from yakitoriyas (selling various grilled chicken parts on sticks) and family run izakayas (a traditional Japanese restaurant and drinking establishment), green tea shops, souvenir shops and the like, and a very nice stop off point, which is a small garden with sheltered seating area where you can sit back and listen to the birds tweeting playfully at the placid temple cats. It feels like this garden is placed perfectly halfway up the hill. This is no fluke. Someone's actually thought this through. 

 

You quickly find yourself at the top of the hill and at the San Mon (temple gate). This grand entrance, staring down at you the with menace and welcome at the same time, is a sight to behold. The two large demonic guards each side of the gate leave you a little in awe, and it's hard not to get the feeling that you won't be bumping into any bad spirits once you cross the threshold. Comforting.

San Mon (Temple Gate)

The walk down to the main area is equally as nice. The downward slope really does throw you into a bit of a time warp. I brought some friends down here just after dusk one time. There is a Kendo school off to one of the sides. Seeing that there, tucked away, brought up all sorts of imagery – secretive, exclusive dojo with a handful of picked students attaining mastery of this ancient art! Even if you're not into that kind of thing, it certainly adds to the atmosphere.

Walkway Down to Main Area

Seating Outside Cafe

There are some beautiful reds and greens in this area at the moment (even after the cheery blossom season, there's still plenty to enjoy). While you're in the temple there are a few things that you can experience. My favourite is a quick prayer to the medium size but utterly serene and majestic seated Buddha. It's hard not to get a sense of wonder and peace from this beautiful statue. A brief stop and bow usually do.

Statue of Buddha

Then it's off to get smoked. There are the usual temple routines of Joukorou (smoke purification), Chozuba (water purification), and Kane (money toss, bell ring, clap, and prayer) at the Daido (Main ceremonial building). Even for non-religious people, it's fun to participate in all these rituals. I like that about Buddhism - it's not that there aren't any rules, just that you can take it completely in your stride.

Daido (Great Hall)

What I find really amazing though is the chanting of the Sutras by the temple monks. If you haven't heard this, you really must try to catch it. I engaged with it immediately today. You can actually feel the vibrations in the air and then traveling around inside you. I can only imagine what it is like for them sitting there doing it. The energy must be amazing.

1000 Sutras

On the way out there a few places you can stop at. There is a coffee shop called Tom's, who do a very nice cup of coffee with a slice of cheesecake for ¥800. It's small, but comfortable. Politik by Coldplay was playing when I went in, which was quite a significant song for me when I first came to Japan and when I used to come to this temple - probably just a coincidence but the timing couldn't have been better. Alternatively, there are some small traditional Japanese cafes and shops by the entrance where on a nice day you can sit outside and enjoy the atmosphere of the temple while sipping a beer or a soft drink.

 

Visiting the temple today made it a perfect Sunday. But I would seriously recommend going here if you want to find that extra special wind-down spot any day of the week.

Address:

2-10-1 Nakayama Ichikawa-shi, Chiba-ken. 〒272-0813

Tel: 047-334-3433

Web site:  http://www.hokekyoji.com/ (Japanese only)

Directions:

JR Sobu-sen Shimousa Nakayama-station - 15 minutes on foot.

Keisei Nakayama-station - 5 minutes on foot.

Map:  http://tinyurl.com/7vpr2j7